If you are new to this blog you might think that this blog is about surfing or skateboarding or some other “extreme sport”. It’s not. What it is about is about training to play better. And it just so happens that surfers, snowboarders and skaters (among others) know something about Play and optimal experience that many others don’t. The purpose of this post is to demystify and hopefully inspire you to take a second look a these pursuits no matter how old you may be. You may find that they offer you a unique way to experience the pure joy and playfulness of your youth you never could have imagined.
You have probably thought like many others that Snowboarding, skateboarding and surfing and other alternative ways of having fun are “extreme sports”: Dangerous, for crazy people, or adrenaline junkies.
This could not be farther from the truth. People of all ages and skill levels practice these sports year round and the incidents of serious injuries is lower than most team sports. I would argue that these activities are not really sports at all.
Surfing, for many is considered a more of a religion than sport. Why? Because there’s so much more surfing than simply catching a wave. Many Zen Buddhists are also practicing surfers. Surfing is about being in the moment and connecting to nature. There’s so much more than simply the physical demands.
Using myself as a simple example: I train for it intensely but not for the reasons that you might think. But rather because it allows me to experience more of the ocean, for longer periods of time and insures that I will not run the risk of injuring myself.
For years I played team oriented sports exclusively. This was a mistake. I see a lot of unhappy, ex-football, basketball, soccer and other team sport athletes, who are out of shape and who do not enjoy moving any more. In contrast, most of the “extreme sports” parents continue to work hard to stay connected to their sport and the communities that support these activities. Overall they also seem to be in better shape and just as passionate about their experience of playing these sports.
It is never too late to try.
If you have never had the opportunity to ride on a board down a wave, a mountain, or a skateboard down a sunset stained hill: simply do it. The wave can be tiny, the mountain small and the hill gentle. You will feel deep change inside and hopefully a moment of timeless flow where all of your conscious thoughts are gone and all you feel is the wind, water, snow, air and sun on your face.
Take an interest in learning how to ride a board you will laugh and marvel at how such a simple thing could bring you so much joy.
Tags: optimal, optimal experience, play, skateboarding, snowboarding, surfing
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I completely agree that sports like surfing, skiing and snowboarding can bring a whole lot more to the table than just exercise. I played football for many years and completely disregarded any type of athletic activity that required me to focus completely by myself. Once I decided to give some of the “fringe” sports a try, I realized that not only are they a great way to get exercise, but they require focus and body control that you just can’t get from too many team oriented sports.
Nick:
Like you I played team sports most of my life: Soccer, Basketball, Softball and others. Although I did skateboard and was pretty good at it, I didn’t get to really feel focused on my own athleticism until I started surfing. This was a pivotal moment for me. It completely changed the way I approached physical activities. In fact, it had such a profound effect upon how I thought and felt about myself that I trained intensely exclusively for surfing and discovered new aspects to my “strengths” that were never uncovered when I was younger. In addition, due to the mental and unique physical demands of surfing I learned how to balance my training to bring me more flow (optimal experiences) which I had not consciously enjoyed as much previously. Now when I do play Soccer competitively I am more playful, focused and get so much more out of it. Also, now I feel like I understand what my real strengths are and how to use them whatever I decide to do. At 42, as a Dad, and someone who runs their own business, this knowledge has helped me immensely in balancing all of life’s complexities in ways that previously I was unable to.
One last thing I would recommend. Find out about how to train properly: The training methodology should be science based and use a functional approach. Watch out for some of the more trendy developments too including some dangerous and unwarranted “high intensity” approaches I’ve seen. You want to progressively and systematically move better, slowing increasing intensity as your body builds the ability to move. It’s easy to increase intensity but much harder to train at the right intensity consistently over time while avoiding injury. There are no quick fixes in fitness or health. Keep it fun, challenging, playful and based upon movement not muscles.
I was a skier for 30 years or more on and off but never got all that good due to lack of time on the mountain. At 54 I got on a snowboard for the first time in my life, because my son who was 14 at the time wanted to try a snowboard and it looked like fun, so my wife and I did too. I am now 58 and board 50-60 days a season. I have, after all these years, found a sport that I am truly passionate about. My wife took it up at the same time and has almost my level of passion for boarding now, if not my level of skill and aggression to progress.
Two summers ago I got a new mountain bike to help stay fit in summer. This year I started to prep for the snow season in summer with an eliptical trainer and bow machine. Initially I could only do about 5-10 minutes but by the time the season started I am up to at least 30 minutes at pretty high level resistance and have done up to an hour on weekends when I had the time. I actually got my first “runners high” on the eliptical. It now leaves me energized all day after my morning workouts. Now that snow season is here I am doing the workouts Tues-Thurs. and riding on weekends at my home mountain, Alyeska Resort which is mostly mid to expert level terrain. Nothing like the North Face on a pow day. I think I am the oldest regular boarder on the hill that I see, but last year did meet one boarder older than I am. He was 60.
I have felt stronger and more alive and energized in the last few years than in the last 20. My belly is now flat and solid and I am working on the 6-packs (6packs by 60 is the goal). I just wish I had figured it out earlier in life. But I won’t stop till I drop (or can’t get Celebrex any more).
You are so right – there’s nothing like continuous training to make any sport – especially those considered “extreme” – more enjoyable, safer, better and, overall, more fun. Have you tried slalom waterskiing – on a course, rather than freestyle ? If so, what exercises do you recommend for keeping in “ski shape” during the winter months in NYC ?
I’m super happy for you! Sounds like you really understand what it means to be connected to what you love physically and mentally. I encourage you to do some “functional based training”: balance training and stabilization training for your lower body. In addition, you might want to consider finding someone locally who could work with you to identify your postural patterns and to design a simple, strength training maintenance program for you that you can do on your own. (I may be able to help you screen someone locally by giving you some questions to ask them.)
I appreciate your sharing your comments and look forward to hearing from you again. Photos are welcome too.
all the best and have fun this winter.
happy holidays,
Tomas
I have water skied but I’m by no means an expert. I don’t have access to a boat very often but there’s a friend of mine who I see every summer and I’ve tried wake boarding (super fun!) and even towing my surfboard behind a jetski. In both instances carving turns is what makes this so much fun.
I will say this. I have found skateboarding using Carveboards (large wheeled boards) on moderate hills on quiet streets in rural/suburban neighborhoods to be truly marvelous. When I had the opportunity a while back to demo the board in California the founders of the company told me about a place there that was an abandoned suburban development with streets and driveways and no houses that was the skateboarding equivalent to Hawaii or snowboarder/skiers Whistler. Ultimately, my point here is that you can find creative ways to “simulate” what you love to do in the most unlikely places.
I also like to train obviously. I try to invent exercises that challenge me mentally and physically in ways that mimic the feeling of being pushed to my limits. Not simply in terms of weight but also complexity and focus. Look for safe ways to do this and explore how to train more specifically for the demands of what you love and you’ll find answers.
Also, of course, I’m happy to continuously provide you with comments and answers your questions. Look for the blog to have more content including exercises soon.
Thanks for the comments.
All my best.
Happy Holidays
Tomas